A Wine Imbiber’s Diary - Part 4
“August in Malaga”
Friday 13th is supposed to be unlucky for some, but not for the Malagueños this year, as this was when their annual summer fair commenced with a bang – the traditional ‘pregón’ followed by a fantastic firework display. This annual event began in the 15th Century when Columbus was discovering America – and it has been going from strength to strength ever since. The fair continues, nonstop, for ten days – day and night. The night revelries take place in a enormous fair ground that has to be seen to be believed. It has the usual attractions of a big wheel, dodgems, shooting galleries etc. as well as the traditional casettas where visitors can eat, drink and dance the night away. On top of this, there is the municipal theatre showing acts provided by famous Spanish stars of film, TV and theatre. However, Mercedes and I are not nocturnal creatures, so we prefer the day fair, centred on Calle Larios and the narrow streets and quaint squares of the old town. Here, wherever you go, you encounter extended families eating, drinking and being merry.
The most popular beverage is ‘fino’ (dry sherry?) and if this were to your taste, then I would recommend the local fino ‘Trajinero’ a very dry amontillado style Pedro Jimenez wine. Another popular drink, especially for the young, is the local white wine ‘Cartojal’ mixed with either gaseosa or lemonade (with ice). Spontaneous dancing takes place wherever a space allows. The most popular and traditional dance is the Sevillana, but more spectacular is the ‘Verdialles. Pandas (groups) of flamenco musicians descend from the surrounding mountain villages to perform the oldest form of flamenco in the world – the Verdialles. These performers wear very distinct costumes, with wide brimmed hats bedecked with flowers. This headwear is an indication that this form of dance could go back to the mysterious Minoan civilization of Crete. The music of these ‘pandas’ has not been academized and has been passed down from father to son and can therefore be regarded as true folk music. The Verdialles is a form of ‘Fandango’ and has a fast fiddle. The tambourine, with accompanying chords and cadences provided by guitars and castanettes, beats out the principle rhythm. Their most spectacular dance is ‘the dance of the two flags” and this could possibly be the origins of the American majorettes.
Being the week of the fair, finding a good restaurant was difficult, but with tapas of cured hams, mature cheese, seasoned beef tomatoes, grilles prawns and delicious potato omelettes, we survived without a three course meal. This week of summer festivities also includes bull fighting with the meat of the sacrificed animal on sale immediately after the ‘corrida’. The dish my family and I ate was “Pelotas de la Corrida” (meaty balls from the bull fight). When we have had this dish before, the balls were enormous and very fulfilling. This year, however, they were much smaller and whenthis was pointed out to the waiter, he replied, “Señor, the bull doesn’t always loose!” Joking apart, we really went to town with our choice of Malaga red wine. It was the Pinot Noir 2008 from the Cortijo Los Aguilares bodega in Ronda, which has been awarded the Grand Gold Medal in Switzerland. It is not cheap, but every now and then it is nice to truly wine the afternoon away.
